Horizontal section rebuild

With things starting to come together, it is time to put the main horizontal drive onto the top casting. Of course, having heaved the this drive unit onto the casting I then realised it needed the drive fitting. Fortunately the casting slides far enough forward to allow this. Once this was fitted into place, then the side spindle could be fitted. You will spot from the photo below that I got a bearing shim in the wrong place and this stopped the bevel gear going back far enough to the rear of the machine. The result – the  side spindle would not go in far enough!

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Fitting the side spindle was straightforward once the spindle above was correctly installed,  although most burrs had to be cleaned up a little to allow easy installation into the casting.

The jib piece was fitted and adjusted to take up most play. Once the machine is fully built I will oil and make all the necessary adjustments.

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As you will see, my machine has dual dials – Metric and Imperial – which is a useful addition and one I have not seen before. The dials are mounted on an extension arbor to the main shaft.

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Below is a photograph of the head slid back. The covers will be re-painted black in due course!!

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The head was slid back and the bracket that holds the screw fitted.

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Gearbox painted.

Here we have the gearbox painted and with all masking take removed. It is worth taking a little extra care in masking up to ensure bare surface are left bare – such as the selector ring.

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It doesn’t look too bad – considering I didn’t even prime it!

I now have to decide is the speed selector knob (not shown here) was blacked or not. Some research on photos may high light this.

All the parts that I want sprayed for the moment are done and so it is on to the rebuild pages.

A trial using metal blackening solution

I thought it would be good to transform some of the slightly rusty components back to their blackened glory. Here, I have taken a selection of parts and degreased them.

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Next, cialis usa a session on the 3M fibre wheel to remove rust.

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Then through the process of a blackening solutions.

Items after having been in the oil dispersing solution (after blacking)

Items after having been in the oil dispersing solution (after blacking)

Its not the greatest photo but the results are fabulous and will really add a touch to the refurb. This was a trial and I am very pleased with the results. Now to do the rest.

Cleaning and painting the gearbox.

As you can see, this unit is pretty grubby!

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However, with some degreaser, the unit came up well. The speed selector knob wasa bugger to remove as the locating dimple on the shaft had a severe burr and this caused the knob to lock on the shaft.

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I don’t have much time at the moment and so this unit will be masked up as a complete unit. I will come back to giving it a full inspection at a later date. So below is said masked item ready for painting.

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A little more priming…

Here we have the vertical head and autofeed control box casting being prepped for primer. They have been filled with a car body type filler ( 2 pack) that is fairly easy to sand. Ideally I would use a filler primer but I have run out and I am reluctant to buy any as we are hopefully moving house soon and I want to transport as little as possible. So an etch primer was used – as this is what I have in abundance.IMG_1029

Once these have cured off we should be ready to put the final coats of 2 pack paint on. I am using an equivalent 2 pack primer to ensure a tough and durable coating. The next job will be to tackle the gearbox for the longitudinal feed. No dought a challenge is in store!

Vertical Head preparation

The vertical head was bably chipped all over and a repaint would have looked awful without a bit of filler.

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Before I split the unit apart I used a 2 pack filler (high metal content) and then ptotected any metal surface from the sander. Once this was done I then hand sanded with 240 wet and dry and did a little more filling in readiness for the etch primer. The disadvantage of the metal based filler is that it sets like rock! It does adhere to metal very well, however.

Dismantling the power feed control unit.

In order to spay certain castings, some ‘modules’ require dismantling. I’m sure it has a better name but I shall call it the power feed control unit!

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The unit was fairly well gummed up and so a strip down was necessary to clean the gears etc. Firstly you need to remove the input shaft. This is held in place with a caphead screw and once removed you can then tap out the drive. I notice the drive pin is made of brass to make sure that it shears before any damage to gears has been done.

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With the aid of a pin wrench, you can then unscrew the backplate. I left the nut loose just in case the spring inside shot items across the workshop – this was not necessary!

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The unit can then be taken apart fully. What I have not shown is the inner nut holding the sliding collars together. This nut was a pig to remove and I ended up using a punch and hammer on one of the pin wrench holes. (a pin wrench had no effect on the nut!). By using the oiling hole on the collar, you can line up this hole with one inside on the shaft. This allows a peg to be inserted to ‘lock’ the unit and thus allow you to try and remove the nut! The last photo show the unit completely dismantled ready to be degreased and a primer coat of etch primer applied.